THE BIG WILDTHE BIG WILD

Many towns have charm. Livingston, Montana, packs mystique, modeling a shaggy-smart Western cool. The historic Murray Hotel is the jewel of the retro main drag; its bottom floor houses 2nd Street Bistro, where Anthony Bourdain dined with author Jim Harrison and painter Russel Chatham. [Just a couple of locals.] With Yellowstone National Park and Paradise Valley’s spring creeks within easy striking distance, Livingston is both a hub and retreat. Pick up a local author’s work at Elk River Books, a Stetson at Bob’s Outdoor. Cowboys, poets and artists gather ’round pan-seared Flathead Lake trout at Campione Roman Kitchen, the best little Italian cafe in Montana. To seal the deal with a piece of cinematic lore, cue up Rancho Deluxe. Up the road a piece, Chico Hot Springs, which at the turn of the 20th century served as a destination for weary miners, now offers all variety of lodging—from humble rooms in the creaky main lodge to cushy hillside chalets to custom-built Conestoga wagons—as well as classic soaking pools.

The keenest Yellowstone wildlife-watchers know to be out in the Lamar Valley at first light, about a half-hour before sunrise. So set an early alarm and hightail it to the sagebrush plains of “America’s Serengeti,” where you’re likely to see enormous herds of bison—plus elk, pronghorn, bighorn sheep, foxes and coyotes. Bears roam the valley as well, and this is also one of the best places in the world to see wild wolves; BYO binoculars or spotting scope (many outfitters rent both).

If your Yellowstone baggage includes one ounce of cynicism, time to chuck that. A wide-eyed approach works best. The road to Madison Junction runs through a greatest-hits lineup of geysers and hot springs, with options for short detours to geothermal sites branching off the main loop. All are worthwhile. Imagine exploring an exotic alien landscape (in some ways, true) and take every bend in the road. 

Of particular note: the fascinations clustered around Great Fountain Geyser, 11 miles up the road north of Old Faithful. Like that famed gusher, Great Fountain keeps a roughly predictable timetable, blasting forth every nine to 15 hours, often continuing over an hour. (A given eruption’s length helps geyser-spotters predict the next.) For a talking point as you wait, nearby Mushroom Pool was key to breakthrough science: In the late 1960s, researchers Thomas Brock and Hudson Freeze discovered unknown, heat-loving microorganisms here. One bacterium, Thermus aquaticus, proved vital to genetic research and biomedical invention, including recent tests for the novel coronavirus. More striking to the eye, White Dome Geyser stands like a wild-built fortress, a patchwork of bone-white and rust-red deposits built up over centuries against a distant evergreen horizon. It, too, erupts—less predictably, but to dramatic effect.

GRAND PRISMATIC SPRING

Mesmerizing blue waters, rainbow-laced steam and vividly colored microbe colonies make Grand Prismatic a mandatory stop. It produces its color show with a nonstop churn of water, super-heated in the depths and cooling as it rises. A hike part way up the Fairy Falls Trail leads to commanding views. 

NORRIS GEYSER BASIN

The park’s oldest, hottest geyser basin may also be most dynamic, with frequent seismic changes to its features. Bleached-out Porcelain Basin presents a barren and crusty landscape dotted with milky-watered pools. Find two small but significant museums near here, one dedicated to Norris itself, the other to park ranger history.

After seeing Old Faithful’s blast, it’s tempting to think you’ve seen Yellowstone’s highest highlights. And that most famous name-brand gusher does sit at a nexus of natural wonder and human culture. Amble the winding paths and boardwalks, breathe in some sulphur, and appreciate just where you are. Old Faithful Inn’s vaulted dining room is the place to toast and take stock. But this is far from the last word in wonder here. One example: the West Thumb Geyser Basin steams away on Yellowstone Lake’s southwest shores, providing a dramatic one-stop primer on hydrothermal diversity. (Be sure to stare into the Abyss.) Just beyond YNP’s southern gate, make time to stop for staggering views of Grand Teton National Park, and maybe a sojourning bison herd. 

In Jackson, WY, the days begin with snappy fresh-air breaths and, ideally, coffee and egg sammies at Persephone. Take a morning wander through the beguiling stone-walled architecture and deep collection at the National Museum of Wildlife Art, rambling on a hillside north of town. If you need gear, JD High Country Outfitters is old-school and expert-staffed. (Plus, an indoor archery range.) 

A Five & Dime, boutique art galleries and the historic MILLION DOLLAR COWBOY BAR (seats are saddles) wrap Town Square. Among many lodgings, the new Cloudveil is a fresh, graceful presence right in the thick of it. Chicken and waffles at CAFÉ GENEVIEVE wash down well with SNAKE RIVER BREWING microbrew. Venture to Fiesta for a taste of Tlaxcala fare imported by Jackson’s sizable Hispanic community. 

You could spend a lifetime probing the sea of wild public land surrounding Jackson.Check out the BRIDGER-TETON NATIONAL FOREST, 10 times the size of its neighboring national park, for whitewater on the Snake.