Southern Mountain Summer
From every point on the compass, this is prime time to visit the People’s Park.
The past speaks in the Great Smoky Mountains. These are among the oldest mountains in the world—so listen closely to their trees, streams and critters as they rustle, rush and sway. That creaking sound? Maybe the old beams in a cantilever barn, a church or homestead still visited by the descendants of people who once lived in them.
The present day speaks in more obvious ways. That white noise you’re hearing is no soundtrack. It’s any one of the nearly 3,000 miles of creeks and rivers pouring down out of the mountains. And that other sound—well, that’s you and me. Great Smoky Mountains National Park is a busy place. The busiest of any national park, in fact, with 12 million annual visitors. But that’s to be expected from an astounding landscape that lies within a day’s drive of roughly half the population of the U.S. Summer as peak season makes sense, too: cool swimming holes nestled into shady old-growth forests; the spray of waterfalls after a hike; the pop of 1,700 species of wildflowers; and even the thrill of a theme-park ride with mountain views in the distance.
People and nature go hand in hand here. Nicknamed the “People’s Park,” Great Smoky was the first national park established on land bought and partly paid for by private citizens, back in the 1920s and ’30s. Find your way to Newfound Gap from Cherokee or Gatlinburg, and you’ll see the monument honoring John D. Rockefeller, who paid for the other half.
“Nicknamed the ‘People’s Park,’ Great Smoky was the first national park established on land bought and partly paid for by private citizens, back in the 1920s and ‘30s.”
It’s good to remember our role here, as part of nature, visitors to this longtime home for wildlife. A lazy black bear, or just a sleepy one, peers down from its perch in an oak tree in Cades Cove. Traffic comes to a halt and motorists climb out, phones in hand. Photographs are snapped, and then a park volunteer waves people along. The lucky few—since who doesn’t want to spot a bear?—now have a story to tell: “We were this close!”
There’s more to see beyond rock star wildlife, of course.
“Look at all the trees,” remarks a woman from California visiting Great Smoky Mountains National Park for the first time. Indeed, the park is home to more species of trees than the entire continent of Europe. “There’s so much green. Everywhere.” Blue too. The Cherokee, who have lived on their ancestral homeland for 17,000 years, call it Shaconage (“land of blue smoke”) for the natural haze visible on summer days thanks to organic compounds exhaled from millions of trees. Needless to say, every lungful offers a breath of fresh air.
People help make the mountains, too. Take legendary mountain man Will Walker (1838-1919), who had three wives, fathered 27 children and had such good aim he wasn’t allowed to participate in sharpshooting contests. Today, Great Smoky Mountains Institute at Tremont teaches people, mostly schoolkids, about the natural world where Walker’s homestead once stood. The whole tons-of-kids-exploring-the-forest tradition continues, you might say.
How best to enjoy the crown jewel of the Southern Appalachian Mountains? These ancient peaks show time, weathered by generations of steady erosion. Their rounded slopes appear in layers under shifting light and atmospheric haze, creating an illusion of rolling waves. And sure enough, they're changing slowly and shifting always with the Earth's seismic rhythms. Move along with them and through them—hike them, bike them, ride along their winding roads —finding your own way to roll.
Explore the area
To the West
Townsend, TN
The “peaceful side of the Smokies” offers a range of delights in the least-busy gateway to the national park.
Post up
Camp in shaded spots along the river at Little River Campground and RV Resort. Tent camping and glamping cabins, too.
Ask an expert
Great Smokies Visitor Center is one of several spots to connect with park guides. Operated by Smokies Life, a nonprofit cooperating association of the park since 1953 and publisher of respected magazine.
Take a dip
Head to Townsend Wye—the confluence of three tributaries marks the start of the Little River. A cool place for a hot day.
Cycle
Spot wildlife along Cades Cove's 11- mile one-way country road with 19th century farmsteads and access to several trailheads, including Abram Falls (5 miles roundtrip). Open exclusively to pedestrians and bicyclists every Wednesday, May to September.
Book a class
Plan ahead for a photography workshop, Family Camp, Naturalist Week (“summer camp for adults”), one of eight courses in the Southern Appalachian Naturalist Certification Program and a range of other offerings at Tremont Institute.
Drive
The Tail of the Dragon section of US-129 hugs the western boundary of the park, 318 curves in 11 miles. Take in views from the Foothills Parkway (western section) No less thrilling a drive with fewer curves. Follow this scenic route from Walland to Look Rock and climb the observation tower.
Hike
An old railroad bed, Middle Prong Trail, ushers you through a verdant forest and past numerous swimming holes. Hike 3.5 miles to Indian Flats Falls.
To the East
Gatlinburg, TN
This crowded tourist hub off ers plenty of hustle and bustle. Busy main street takes you past countless novelty shops, entertainment venues and the Nantahala Outdoor Center. But it’s a gateway to nature, too.
Post up
Camp at Greenbrier Campground—a Good Sam recommendation. Dip in nearby Flint Rock swimming hole or wet a line in the Little Pigeon River.
Learn
Find exhibits, a bookstore, ranger-led programs and nature trails at Sugarlands Visitor Center.
Hike
One of the tallest waterfalls in the Smokies rumbles at mile 4 of the 8-mile Ramsey Cascades Trail. Stand of giant trees in old-growth forest.
The storied 2,220-mile Appalachian Trail runs from Georgia to Maine. The most easily accessible point here is located at Newfound Gap, which straddles the state line dividing Tennessee and North Carolina.
Take a short hike up Kuwohi—highest peak in the Smokies at 6,643 feet above sea level, with panoramic views of seven states on a clear day. Accessible by a half-mile paved path.
Summit
Climb Mt. LeConte Follow one of five trails to one of the highest mountains in the eastern U.S. Plan months ahead and book a night’s stay on the rustic mountaintop lodge.
Pay homage
Ride Drop Line at Dollywood for a glimpse of the entire amusement park before plunging 230 feet at 80 mph. The cinnamon roll is a must. Ask yourself, what would Dolly do?
To the South:
CHEROKEE, NC
The capital of the Eastern Band of Cherokee Indians sits adjacent to the national park, with a rich cultural heritage of arts and crafts along with area mountain biking, fishing, swimming and more
Dine
Order the pecan-encrusted trout and Smoke Signal Pale Ale at the Native American and woman-owned Native Brews Tap & Grill.
Stroll
The 3-mile roundtrip Oconaluftee River Trail is one of the only bike- and pet-friendly trails in the park. Mountain Farm Museum and Mingus Mill nearby.
Hike
The 5-mile Deep Creek Loop Trail takes you past Juney Whank, Tom Branch and Indian Creek waterfalls.
Learn
Owned and operated by the Eastern Band of Cherokee Indians, th award-winning Museum of the Cherokee People celebrates Cherokee culture and history.
Experience the local culture at Oconaluftee Indian Village. Historic buildings and live demonstrations of traditional crafts and skills by tribal members.
Post Up
Stay at Happy Holiday, a Good Sam recommended campground and tribal-owned spot with more than 300 full hook-ups.
Float
Several companies rent tubes just outside the national park near Bryson City, NC for a float on Deep Creek.
Spot Elk
Cataloochee, the site of a once-thriving farming community is home to a herd. Charming creeks, historic buildings and several trailheads.
Watch
Catch a live performance of “Unto These Hills”. The two-hour outdoor drama in Cherokee recounts formation of the Eastern Band of Cherokee Indians from first contact with Europeans through the years following the tragic Trail of Tears.
Get the Guide
Inside Wildsam Great Smoky Mountains, you'll find park stories from prize-winning authors, past and present; a detailed road trip plan to base-camp towns; interviews with white-water pioneers, Cherokee language teachers, trolley drivers and wildlife biologists; thought-provoking miscellany from the archives, selective recommendations about authentic Great Smoky Mountains experiences and a deep dive into how to best explore the national park.
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